01 / Reference first
Confirm the exact reference, production range, case dimensions and movement. Similar-looking variants can have different parts, service needs and resale markets.
02 / Seller quality
Price is only one risk. Verify identity, transaction history, return terms and whether the seller will answer reference-specific questions in writing.
03 / Case geometry
Look for softened edges, uneven brushing, rounded crown guards and mismatched finishing. A heavily polished watch can be honest, but it should not be priced like a sharp example.
04 / Dial and hands
Check whether lume colour, printing, date wheels and hand sets make sense together. Replacement parts are not automatically bad; undisclosed parts are.
05 / Bracelet and links
Missing links, stretched bracelets and over-polished clasps change both fit and replacement cost. Confirm that the watch will fit before the deal.
06 / Service reality
Ask what was done, by whom and when. A pressure test or timing slip is not the same as a documented full service.
07 / Total ownership cost
Add likely service, shipping, tax, insurance and missing accessories to the purchase price. The cheapest listing is often not the cheapest watch.
08 / Fair-value range
Use a range, not one magic number. Adjust for condition, provenance, included accessories, location and seller quality.
09 / Exit liquidity
Know who would buy the watch from you later. Liquidity matters even when you intend to keep a watch because plans change.
10 / The overnight rule
If the deal only works when you decide immediately, it probably does not work. Save the listing, sleep on it and review the first nine checks in the morning.